This article is from the Toyota Tundra FAQ, by Steve Yee with numerous contributions by others.
A solution to this has been posted to Tundra Solutions. Listed below is a copy
of the post.
One of the features I didn't like about the Tundra is the two extra power
outlets to the right of the ash tray/cupholders go dead when the key is off.
Sometimes it's nice to have your cellphone continue to charge or to leave your
CB on when stopping for gas, so I decided to "improve upon" the situation.
Power to those two outlets is provided by a relay and two 15A fuses in the
underhood fuse/relay box. The relay is the large brown one in the 3rd position
back from the end of the fuse/relay box closest to the engine. Make a 3" jumper
cable out of 14 awg wire with two male .25" spade terminals on the ends. Unplug
the relay and you will see the relay socket has two large pins and two small
ones. Insert the ends of the jumper wire into the two LARGE pins of the relay
socket. This bypasses the relay and feeds battery power to the outlets at all
NOTE: it does NOT affect the lighter plug -- that will still switch off with
the key. There is no downside to this as near as I can tell. I've been running
the truck this way for 2 weeks now. YMMV.
To see a website that shows the actual modification, please go to
To only make one of the outlets stay on, a fix for this is listed below that
was originally posted on Tundra Solutions.
Good idea on how to put both outlets on "hot" all the time. As an addition to
that method, there is a way to set up to have one outlet "hot" all the time and
one come on only with the ignition. I wanted mine that way so I could keep my
cell phone plugged in and charged all the time and have my radar detector come
on automatically when starting the car. In the fuse box right next to the
battery you will find two 15Amp fuses marked on the inside of the cover as
outlet #1 and outlet #2. Pick either you want and pull that fuse out. Now
connect a lead with an inline fuse (don't do it without the inline fuse) from
the stud at the inside end of the box to the rear terminal of the position
where you removed the fuse. You will need a large size crimp terminal on one
end (for the stud end) and a blade style crimp terminal to connect into the
connection where the fuse was located. A bit more complex than the procedure
that makes both "hot" but easy enough if you have had any experience with auto
wiring. This will provide fused power to one of the outlets at all times since
the stud that powers the fuse box is hot all the time and connected directly to