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8a.4 Workstands 2


This article is from the Bicycles FAQ, by Mike Iglesias with numerous contributions by others.

8a.4 Workstands 2

From: Douglas B. Meade <meade@bigcheese.math.scarolina.edu>

>>>>>>>>>> BICYCLE REPAIR STAND SUMMARY <<<<<<<<<<

The Park PRS6 was recommended by several (>5) responders; all
other models were recommended by no more than one responder.

Park PRS6
PROS: full 360\degree rotation
spring-loaded clamp is adjustable
very stable
CONS: not height adjustable
not easy to transport
clamp probably can't work with fat-tubed mtn bike
COST: ~$150
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops

Park Consumer
PROS: foldable
CONS: not as stable as PRS6
COST: ~$100
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops

Park BenchMount
PROS: stronger, and more stable, than many floor models
CONS: must have a workbench with room to mount the stand
COST: $???

PROS: The stand folds flat and is portable.
It has a 360 degree rotating clamp.
It is relatively stable.
CONS: crank-down clamp does not seem to be durable
crank bolt is not standard size; difficult to replace
hard to get clamp tight enough for stable use
clamp scratchs paint/finish
problems getting rotating mechanism to work properly
COST: ~$100
SOURCE: catalogs, local bike shops

CONS: not too stable

Ultimate Repair Stand
PROS: excellent quality
includes truing stand
includes carrying bag
COST: ~$225
SOURCE: order through local bike shop
the U.S. address for Ultimate Support Systems is :
Ultimate Support Systems
2506 Zurich Dr.
P.O. Box 470
Fort Collins, CO. 80522-4700
Phone (303) 493-4488

I also received three homemade designs. The first is quite simple:

hang the bike from coated screw hooks
(available in a hardware store for less that $5/pair)

The others are more sophisticated. Here are the descriptions provided
by the designers of the systems.

Dan Dixon <djd@hpfcla.fc.hp.com> describes a modification
of the Yakima Quickstand attachment into a freestanding workstand

I picked up the Yakama clamp and my local Bike shop for
around $25. What you get is the clamp and a long carraige
bolt with a big (5") wing nut. This is meant to be attached
to their floor stand or their roof racks. The roof rack
attachment is ~$60; expensive, but great for road trips.

I, instead, bought a longer carraige bolt, a piece of
3/4" threaded lead pipe, two floor flanges, and some 2x4's.
(about $10 worth of stuff).

You say you want to attach it to a bench (which should be easy)

                      +- clamp        |            wing nut
                      |               |            |
                      V               |      +--+  V
                 | |---------+        V      |  |   O
                 | |         | |\_________/| |  |  /
                 | |   -O-   |=| _________ |=|  |==I
                 | |         | |/         \| |  |  \
                 | |---------+               |  |   O
                                             |  |
                                /\       /\  |  |<-2x4
                                |         |  |  |
                       flanges--+---------+  |  |
                                             |  |

Excuse the artwork, but it might give you and Idea about
what I mean. You could just nail the 2x4 to the bench or
something. I really like the clamp because it is totally
adjustable for different size tubes.

Eric Schweitzer <ERSHC@cunyvm.cuny.edu> prefers the following
set-up to the Park `Professional' stands that he also has.

My favorite 'stand', one I used for many years, one that I
would use now if my choice of stand were mine, is made very
cheaply from old seats and bicycle chain. Two seats (preferably
cheap plastic shelled seats) (oh...they must have one wire
bent around at the front to form the seat rails...most seats
do) have the rails removed and bent to form 'hooks'. The
'right' kind of hooks are placed in a good spot on the ceiling
about 5 or 6 feet apart. (really, a bit longer than the length
of a 'typical' bike from hub to hub. If you do a lot of tandems
or LWB recombants, try longer :) Form a loop in one end of the
chain by passing a thin bolt through the opening between 'outer'
plates in two spots on the chain. (of course, this forms a loop
in the chain, not the bolt). The same is done at the other end
to form loops to hold the seat rail/hooks. First, form the hooks
so they form a pair of Js, about 2 inch 'hook's The hook for the
front of the bike is padded, the one for the rear looped through
the chain, squeezed together to a single hook, and padded.

To use, hook the rear hook under the seat, or at the seat stays.
Hook the front with each arm on oposite sides of the stem. Can
also hook to head tube (when doing forks). Either hook can grab
a rim to hold a wheel in place while tightening a quick release
skewer or axle bolt. There is no restricted access to the left
side of the bike. I try to get the BB of a 'typical' frame about
waist height.

In closing, here is a general statement that only makes my decision
more difficult:

My best advice is to consider a workstand a long term durable good.
Spend the money for solid construction. Good stands don't wear or
break, and will always be good stands until the day you die, at
which point they will be good stands for your children. Cheese will
always be cheese until it breaks.


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