This article is from the Apple II Csa2 FAQ, by Jeff Hurlburt with numerous contributions by others.
The standard GS battery is a 3.6V Lithium type rated at 1.2AH. It is called the "BatRAM" battery because it keeps the Battery RAM and Clock IC going when you turn OFF power. To get to the battery, you must disconnect the AC cord and pop out the Power Supply. If you have a ROM 03 GS, you can slip out the old battery and slip in 'one like it'. On the ROM 01 GS, you will need a Lithium battery with leads you can connect to cut-off leads from the old battery-- about 3/4" each for most connection methods-- remaining on the motherboard. Be sure to mark the "+" lead on the motherboard with white-out. Night Owl Productions used to sell a convenient "Slide-On" Lithium battery made by Tadiran. It came with springy ends that would slip over the cut-off leads from the original GS battery. Radio Shack sells a few models of 3.6V Tadiran Lithium batteries. Mostly, these have smooth ends and are intended to fit into a holder-- for example, one model is "AA" size. Connecting an insulated size AA holder and using a size AA 3.6V battery is one way to handle BatRAM replacement now while making future replacements easier. Another Radio Shack 3.6V Tadiran Lithium battery comes as a small rectangular insulated pack with red and black wires going to a plug. From the catalog illustration, it appears that the plug could be fitted onto the cut- off leads if these were long enough to be shaped to match the plug's connectors. (If you decide to have long cut-off leads, it's a good idea to slip heat-shrinkable tubing over the leads to insulate them for most of their length.) It may be that your best bet for getting a good BatRAM replacement battery is All Electronics (800-826-5432; http://www.allcorp.com ). Their catalogs often list 3.6V lithium batteries with and without wire leads in various sizes at low prices. If you like, you can always solder, crimp, etc. insulated leads going to some plug or socket which matches the connector of a particular battery you'd like to use. Whatever, make sure that the new battery's "+" lead connects to the "+" lead on the motherboard. For connecting solid wire bare leads, you can use the spring connectors from a Radio Shack electronics experimenter kit or just wrap the new battery's leads around a large sewing needle to make them springy. The springy leads can then be slipped over the cut off leads on the motherboard. Another non- soldering approach is to use "wire nuts". Should you do any soldering to the cut-off leads, use good quality rosin core solder (e.g 63 Tin multi-core) and try to avoid long heat exposure. You do not want to melt the connection at the motherboard. Similar concerns apply to soldering to the new battery leads. With good solder and clean leads it should be possible to "tin" each lead and make the connections in a few seconds for each operation. Especially if you are joining bare leads to bare leads, you could end up with more bare wire than you are comfortable with. Check that the bare leads do not touch anything they should not. Bend the leads as required and position the new battery so that nothing will bump into the Power Supply when it is replaced. The usual recommendation for this kind of work is that the computer be OFF. This reduces the risk of damage should a bit of solder, a wire, etc. fall onto the motherboard. When disposing of the old battery, snipping off its leads at the battery to reduce the chance of a direct short is a good safety measure. It's hard to be sure an old battery is completely dead; and, a direct short could produce enough heat to burst the battery and/or start a fire. GS users are sometimes shocked to discover that a replacement battery may cost $8 to $13. This has led to suggestions that 2-3 standard 1.5V cells in a holder be used. While any number of lower-cost replacement setups can work, this is pretty close to a classic 'you get what you pay for' situation. Regular 1.5V cell combos reportedly crater in about a year. A 3.6V 1.2AH Lithium battery is routinely good for at least 5 years. Our old Nite Owl battery is going on year 8 or 9. That's a lot of years without having to worry about burst and leaking cells or needing to pull the Power Supply and mess with swapping-in replacement cells. By: Rubywand, Duncan Entwisle, Jerry Cline, Bruce Baker
 
Continue to: