193 Re: What's the best benchtop material?
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 5, by multiple authors.
193 Re: What's the best benchtop material?
From: Thomas Gauldin <scoundrl@cybernetics.net> 27 Apr 1995
There really isn't ONE answer to the question of what is the best
benchtop material. So much of what you choose depends on your own
sense of aesthetics and what you will be doing on the top.
Let's consider the properties of some materials and then folks can
add or subtract on the list.
Formica-type laminate. . . this is a material that gives a smooth and
fairly slippery surface. For general woodworking, it is TOO slippery
IMHO, but it sure is easy to pop off excess glue. It looks great
at first, but the first time you set the random orbit sander down
before it stops fully, the finish will begin to wear. Folks who do
crafts, such as ceramics, pottery or other work involving moisture
might find it to be a good surface that resists warping and moisture
penetration. Model builders and electronic-types would love this
surface as well.
thin carpet. . . great over an inexpensive top for folks who need
protection for finished items, such as picture frames. Generally,
most folks keep a piece of kitchen carpet handy to simply place on
a more durable surface, but dedicated picture framers, for example
might merely cover the top permanently. For general woodworking,
glue, abrasives from sandpaper, pieces of metal filings etc would
soon make the carpet into one huge "scratcher," however.
furniture-type woods. . . Many of the better woodworkers, such
as our Neanderthal friends, prefer the look and quality of a well
finished workbench. Personally, I could turn such a quality top
into kindling in a half of a day, but many folks are careful, plan
cuts well and don't drill into the workbench top. Such people
are to be respected, but I could never join their group <sigh>.
These folks prefer a THICK top, such as 2+ inches, for the inertia
and rigidness of such a top, and the ability to use dogs easily
in the top. Moderately hard woods, such as Beech, Maple etc are
preferred. On occasion, the top can be resurfaced to remove many
of the "slip-ups" (usually blamed on the spouse or child using the
bench), removing all but the deep problems. I place an end grain
butcher block top in the very top of this category. IF you could
ever get it flat :^>, it should last a long time.
metal. . . This top, over 2 layers of 3/4" plywood is great for
the guy who fixes lawn mowers, rebuilds transmission and does
welding on his bench- together with some woodworking. It has the
smoothness of Formica, combined with increased impact forgiveness.
It is great for a ground, also.
Plywood. . . This was my own choice, since I do about everything
on my bench. It sits in the center of my shop, is 42" tall and has
two 3/4 sheets of CDX on top- now sanded down to about 1-1/4" :^>.
I try not to carve it up, but when it happens, a quick refreshing
with the belt sander, after nuking it with a floor scraper, makes
it look as good as I need. When I reach the point where hammers
and 2x4's fall through it into the drawers inside, I'll take the
remainder off and buy a couple of new sheets. The plywood isn't
pretty or even particularly flat (now), but it is very functional.
I don't think a thing about driving a screw into it to hold
something, paint on it occasionally, and have been know to toss a
lawnmower onto it to change a plug or rebuild a carb.
Continue to:
My Books
