141 Re: Router
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 4, by multiple authors.
141 Re: Router
From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin)
Date: 18 Jun 91 01:04:34 GMT
In article <7085@male.EBay.Sun.COM>, rick.sanchez@EBay.Sun.COM (Rick Sanchez) writes:
> I am planning of buying a plunge router and table. Routers are rated at
> 1-1/2 or 3 hp. I would like to know the limitations of 1-1/2hp. Are all
> plunge router can be mounted on router table ?
Most plunge routers are not well-suited for table-mounting. It's hard
to fight the spring pressure from that angle, and it's hard to get an
accurate depth setting. The after-market T-handle knob sold for many
popular plunge routers makes that adjustment much easier, and might --
*might*; I haven't tried it, and probably won't -- make it feasible to
use a plunge router that way.
Porter-Cable makes a plunge base for one of their router motors. You
can either buy the plunge router (the 693), and an extra standard base,
or the standard router (#690) and a plunge base. I have the 693, and
will eventually buy a standard base to mount in a router table.
For most amateur woodworking, a 1.5 hp router is probably sufficient.
Spielman (see below) has commented that hand-held 3 hp routers are
difficult to control if you're not used to them. You need the extra
power for sustained work in very hard woods, especially if you are
using large bits. Panel-raising bits in particular might require the
extra power. On the other hand, several sources, including Spielman,
question the safety of such large bits. If you're using them, you
probably want a variable-speed router or an add-on speed control.
Patrick Spielman has two good books on routers, ``The Router Handbook''
and ``Router Jigs and Techniques''. There's some overlap, but both are
useful.
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