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44 Re: Mini-jointer


This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 3, by multiple authors.

44 Re: Mini-jointer

From: sgs8r@hagar5.acc.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland)
Date: 9 Nov 90 18:28:56 GMT

In article <8250023@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM> fritz@hpfcbig.SDE.HP.COM (Gary Fritz) writes:
>srbeckle@cbnewse.att.com (steven.r.beckle) writes:
>> On my last project, I needed to edge-join some pieces of 1/4" mahogany.
>> I don't own a jointer :-( but came up with a way to achieve perfectly
>> straight smooth edges on the wood before gluing by using a router
>> table and a cutter's edge.
>This relies on the edge opposite of the "jointed" edge already being
>pretty straight, since you're running it on the cutter's edge "fence",
>right? Have you noticed any problems from this?
>Spielman's router book has a setup for jointing using a router mounted
>horizontally. The edge of the bit is adjusted to be 1/16" above the
>surface of the table, and 1/16" laminate is glued on one side of the bit
>(the "outfeed" side). You run your stock into the bit, and the laminate
>supports it at the same height as the bit.
>You could do the same thing with a regular router table by making a fence
>with a "hole" in it for the bit to go through. Adjust the fence so the
>bit is 1/16" out from the edge of the fence, glue some laminate to the
>outfeed side, and you've got the same thing as Spielman's setup. Viewed
>from the top:

>          infeed		   outfeed (w/laminate)
>  ------------------------- **** =======================
>  |                        *bit *			|
>  |			    ****			|
>  |							|
>  ------------------------------------------------------

Actually, as long as the "cutter's edge" (the aluminum guide) is long enough so
the work can bear fully on it throughout the cut (or route) things work fine.
The problem comes if the work shifts due to one of its (generally 2) bearing
points ride off (or on) the fence during the cut.

Regarding Speilman's router jointer: I made one (from his first book, and I
think it was the vertical one you describe) but it didn't work as well as I
hoped. I did everything as described, but after a few days the maple I was
using warped a bit, presumably from stress relief caused by the hole made for
the router bit. Not very much (1/64?) but enough so it was useless. Eventually
I got a good table saw (with a Freud rip it gave almost perfect edges), and
later on a jointer. But,I suggest that you cut the hole first and set the piece
aside for a while. Then putting the cutters edge on the left, run the whole
thing through. Then adjust the fence minutely (put tape on it, or pivot
carefully) and run just the infeed end of the fence through. This avoids gluing
anything to the fence which can also cause it to warp. Use feather boards or
something to keep everything tight throughout the cuts.

Wood is inherently unstable---part of its charm, perhaps, but also why
precision tools are generally made from cast iron.


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