This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 2, by multiple authors.
From: bennett@adobe.COM (Bennett Leeds)
Date: 21 Dec 90 17:59:23 GMT
In article <4890092@hpnmdla.HP.COM> stanj@hpnmdla.HP.COM (Stan Jaffe) writes:
>In rec.woodworking, email@example.com (William Ross) writes:
>> I just bought a Grizzly 14" bandsaw.
>> Some Questions:
>> How do I know what the correct blade tension is?
>There was a good article in a past issue of FineWoodworking. It talked
>about plucking the blade like the string of a guitar and listening to
>the resulting note.
DO NOT USE THIS METHOD!!
In a past issue of FWW on bandsaw selection, Jim Cummings did
some non-orthodox things like using a bimetal blade with a large tpi
number (usually used for cutting metal), and increasing the tension to
some very large amount. If you read the subsequent letters to the
editors in later issues, you will find that people have had serious
problems with this. I've heard of cases where bandsaw columns actually
snapped. Neither the blades nor the bandsaws are designed for this.
The book that everyone (including me) reccomends, "Bandsaw
Handbook" by Mark Duginski, cautions against using this high blade
tension technique. About the only good thing in the FWW article are
the comments on the use of Cool Blocks(tm), which do help those without
ball bearing guides. (Can you believe FWW tested bandsaws, and did not
even look at the small Inca [which is what Mark Duginski uses]?).