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36 Result: Delta bandsaw upgrade question


This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 2, by multiple authors.

36 Result: Delta bandsaw upgrade question

From: majewski@spsd4330a.erim.org (Ron Majewski)
Date: 18 Oct 90 17:12:05 GMT

Here are the results of the Delta Bandsaw inquiry I made last month.
Many thanks to all those who responded to my request!

The question was:
I am the owner of a 14 inch Delta bandsaw. A current project of
mine requires that I be able to resaw some 8-10 in wide stock, so I
am toying with the idea of purchasing the Delta height attachment
and a larger horsepower motor.

Has anyone out in woodworking netland taken the plunge with such
an upgrade? If so, do you have any advice and/or observations before
I jump?

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 90 07:29:07 PDT

From: Ken Hillen <kenh%pogo.wv.tek.com@RELAY.CS.NET>

I have had the height attachment for may saw for many years. It installs
easily, and since I have replaced most of my blades with the longer ones, I
rarly take it out. As for motor size, 1 h.p. is sufficient unless you are
in a big hurry. I use a 3 point skip-tooth blade 3/4" wide.

Good luck.
Ken Hillen

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 90 13:38:16 EDT
From: wildes@copernicus.crd.ge.com (Doug Wildes)

I purchased a Delta 14 inch bandsaw several years ago, and almost
immediately added the 6" height option. It's basically a chunk of cast
iron, with some dowel pins to preserve alignment and a longer bolt to hold
the top and bottom of the saw together. You also get a longer rod for the
blade guides, and some longer versions of the blade guards.

I've been very happy with the extra height, and have noticed no problems
with loss of stiffness, etc. The longer blades (105" nominal) are widely
available, so that should be no problem. Installing the extension is easy,
but inconvienient enough (the dowel pins fit snugly, so things don't come
apart easily; and the upper half of the saw is a bit heavy) that you won't
want to remove it again. So I'd stock up on long blades in all your
favorite sizes, not just resaw widths. I've been using bimetal blades, and
have been very pleased by their long life (resawing red cedar dulls a
standard blade in no time).

Doug Wildes (wildes@crd.ge.com)

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 90 16:20 PDT
From: van-bc!mindlink!Nick_Janow (Nick Janow)

I have a Delta 14" bandsaw with the 6" height adapter and powered by a 1hp
motor. I can cut 12" hardwood (plane, cherry, apple) into thin boards. It's
slow, but acceptable...and a LOT faster than handsawing! :)

I do woodworking as a hobby, but I've built a couple of cabinets and the bansaw
played a big part in those. I have rough air-dried wood (I harvested it
myself) which I had originally sawn into boards and timbers while green; the
bandsaw did that task quite well. Then I had to resaw the dried boards and
timbers for the project. I had no trouble resawing hardwood (or cedar for back
panels) as thin as necessary. I can cut <1/8" thick veneer as well.

I'm quite satisfied with my bandsaw. Definitely buy the height adapter!

Date: Fri, 21 Sep 90 21:19:47 EDT
From: jggil@ihlpl.att.com (Joseph G Gilbert)

I do have the Delta 14" Bandsaw with the 3/4 HP motor and the
6" height adaptor, though I did buy it as the higher grade saw,
(I did not upgrade the standard saw) I highly recommend both.
I find I use the extra height constantly for resawing and roughing
turning blanks. As part of your upgrade, you may want to
change your stand, either homemake or buy the enclosed stand.
The standard stand does add alot of potential vibration. The
enclosed stand is not only more solid but also places the motor
below the table instead of behind.

Date: Tue, 25 Sep 90 08:10:32 mdt
From: Dwight Schettler <rds@cnd.hp.com>

I had the same problem several months ago & bought the height attachment. I
love it. The widest board I have resawed was 8 or 9 inch piece of oak but I'm
sure it can handle more. My machine is only 1/2 hp and that is somewhat of a
drawback. I have to be careful not to feed the stock too fast or I bog down
the motor. As long as I keep it slow it does just great. I plan to replace
the motor with a bigger one (maybe 1 hp) someday.


From: clewis@ecicrl.UUCP (Chris Lewis)
Date: 18 Oct 90 17:29:24 GMT

In article <1990Oct16.174149.10165@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> sgs8r@hagar5.acc.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland) writes:
>...First, the motor needs a new
>starting capacitor (the motor got dropped and the old one cracked and is
>leaking electrolyte---though the motor seems to start fine). Where should I
>look for one of these? Delta? Any electrical supply?

I'd suggest trying an electric motor rebuilding place or electronics
supply. They aren't simple electrolytics - they're rated for AC not
DC. I seem to remember that they're usually rated for something like
200V AC somewhere around 1MF.

>The Delta catalog has a lengthly table showing the motor applications for the
>various motors. Given the speed and HP, are there any important differences
>between these motors? Is being TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) crucial in
>some applications? And assuming you pulley up or down appropriately, is there
>any reason to prefer a 3400 rpm motor to a 1750 rpm motor?

There's two principle differences: the higher the RPM of the motor, the
smaller the engine pulley you should use (given that most equipment make
it difficult to change the other end). If one of the pulleys gets too
small, you lose traction and the tool may slip. A colleague has a 14"
Delta bandsaw with a 3400 RPM motor. The drive pulley was only 1 or
1 1/2" diameter - I had to stand on the motor to give it enough traction
to get thru 1 1/2" cherry. He's now using a 1750 RPM motor....

T'other difference is that 3400 RPM motors often seem to be marginally
cheaper than 1750's. (simpler windings I guess)

I've not had much trouble with non-TEFC motors in cheap table saws,
but I would suggest them for any extremely dusty machines where the
motor is relatively close to the cutting edge. Eg: rear-mount
table saws etc.


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