This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 2, by multiple authors.
From: lou@fornax.UUCP (Lou Hafer)
Date: 18 Oct 90 00:18:50 GMT
I'd like to second Tom Chmara's recommendation for Duginske's bandsaw
book. The bandsaw I have is the 18" Lobo saw. Having a very small workshop,
it looked to me like a bandsaw was the best bet for flexibility. I bought the
Lobo specifically for resaw height and ability to handle 3/4" and 1" bands.
I was a bit dismayed with the initial performance of the saw. As one
colleague put it "You should look on Taiwanese machines as a kit", and he was
pretty close to right. Tom, for what it's worth, to deal with aligning the top
wheel I used a standard washer and ground the outside down with a bench grinder
(hot fingers! use gloves) until it didn't rub on the bearing. I also found that
a good way to true up the rubber tire without rigging something to drive the
top wheel was to just use a sanding disc chucked in a drill - mark the high
spot, sand a bit (be careful to retain roundness and crown), mark, etc.
So, after running through Duginske's tune-up procedures, the saw's
working fine. Lots of power (220 VAC, 2HP motor option). With a good, straight
band, there's no vibration and the cut is nearly as clean as a table saw.
BUT, I'm left with one serious problem - Where can I go to get 3/4" and
1" bands that are consistently welded straight? I've tried two saw shops here
in Vancouver, and neither can get it right consistently - they try, but just
don't seem to have the equipment to get the alignment correct. Anyone have any
recommendations for mail-order?
While I'm on the subject, has anyone tried the "cabinet-maker's band"
tooth pattern? A five tooth pattern, if I remember correctly, four alternating
then a raker. Supposed to be a smooth cut. Advertised by Garret-Wade, I think.
And, anyone tried grinding the crown off a set of rubber tires? One of
Duginske's claims is that wide bands will track better (more stable) on flat