55 What to watch for when buying old woodworking tool
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 1, by multiple authors.
55 What to watch for when buying old woodworking tool
The most devastating problem is a crack in one of the castings.
This often happens on the sides of the plane, in the area around
the mouth. If there is a crack here, chances are the plane will
not work well. There are often cracks around the mouth on the
bottom of the plane as well. Chips are often seen in front of
and behind the mouth. It they are in the front there is a
problem, since this will impede the proper function of the plane.
Ones behind the mouth, if small and not connected to cracks, can
be considered merely cosmetic. Often portions of the side are
chipped off. If these are relatively small, they shouldn't be a
problem. However, the plane should be appropriately discounted.
Cracks in the lever cap can be disastrous. These often occur
around the hole for the screw, or by the lever itself. These
will allow the cap to flex, preventing proper tensioning. Often
the bottom edge of the lever cap is chipped. They were sometimes
used as screw drivers for the screw on the iron. A small chip is
no disaster, but large ones can cause uneven pressure to be
applied to the iron, allowing one side to chatter.
Cracks in the tote and knob are common. Totes are often
repairable with an adhesive suitable for exotics. Often past
owners have botched repair attempts, complicating things because
the old adhesive must first be removed. Radial cracks in the
knob are tougher to fix, and if severe, can hinder proper
tightening of the knob.
Pitting from rust is common on the metal parts of old tools.
Pitted castings, while ugly, are not really a problem unless
severe. On the sole they can prevent the plane from leaving a
smooth surface, which is of course the whole point. Examine
pitting closely beside and around the mouth. I've seen planes
that have been welded reasonably well, where the clearest sign of
the repair are gas bubbles in the weld that resemble rust pits.
Pitting is more of a problem when it occurs on the rear of the
blade. This often happens when water collects in the capillary
reservoir formed by the blade and the chip breaker. If it's
light, it can be ground off when flattening the blade. Sometimes
it is too deep for this to be possible. The blade can still be
used for rough work, but it will never leave a smooth surface.
While looking at the blade, check for how much life is left in
it. New blades had 2" or so of iron below the notch. Discount
the value if less than 1" is left.
Familiarize yourself with the function of the various adjustment
mechanisms and make sure they are in working order. With proper
tension on the lever cap, they should work smoothly without
excessive pressure. Disassemble the plane to make sure
everything is as it should be, and that all parts are there.
Check important working surfaces for wear: the slot in the
adjustment wheel, the wheel on the end of the adjustment lever.
Check to see that the screw heads are not stripped or abused:
this can be a sign of rough handling.
Check the sole for flatness. The sole need not be optically
flat, but serious warping is a problem. Soles can be hollow,
convex or twisted along their length. If you can spot the
problem by eye, it's best to pass on the plane. If you plan to
use the plane in a shooting board or for shoulder work, make sure
the sides are square to the sole. Sight down the soles and
fences of wooden planes. Be especially attentive to planes with
mouths that cut completely cross the sole, like dados. These are
particularly prone to warping out of line.
These are the things to look for when buying a user plane. The
collector market is a whole different ball game. There, finishes
are faked, planes are modified to resemble rarer ones, mixed
parts from different types become problems, etc. Hopefully, if
you are spending that kind of moulah, this FAQ is not your only
guide.
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