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28 Specialty Topics: Classic Tailoring Techniques: A construction Guide for Women's/Men's Wear




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This article is from the Textile Related Books FAQ, by Lara J. Fabans lfabans@adobe.com with numerous contributions by others.

28 Specialty Topics: Classic Tailoring Techniques: A construction Guide for Women's/Men's Wear

both books by Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers
copyright 1984 by Fairchild Publications
both books available from Unicorn as of 4/92 (see sewing FAQ for more info)

These books discuss the classic techniques that use horsehair canvas and hand
pad stitching for shaping. The books do not discuss machine or fusible
methods. The Women's book includes chapters on: 1) general tailoring
supplies, equipemtnt and techniques 2) chooseing a pattern and making
preliminary adjustments such as the roll line, vents or cuffs 3) fit: taking
measurements, making a muslin, fit adjustments for the muslin, 4) selecting
and preparing fabric 5) layout and cutting, with a section devoted to stripes
and plaids 6) details of the jacket, many types of pockets, attaching and
adjusting a muslin sleeve and then attaching the final sleeve, linings and
facings, a peplum 7) skirts, basic straight with various options, strait
skirts with shiring or pleats 8) pants 9) alterations to labels, sleeves,
lining, waistline and pants.

If you do not plan to use classic construction techniques, you may find some
useful chapters in the Women's Wear book such as: discussions on bound
buttonholes, method of attaching and customizing the fit of a sleeve,
discussions of shoulder pads, many types of pockets on the jacket and in the
lining, notes on a peplum jacket, sections on skirts and pants, many types of
pockets for the skirt and pants, and the sections on fit and alterations.

Several of the sections in the Men's Wear book are very similar to the
sections in the Women's Wear book. But the Men's Wear book includes quite a
bit of information specific to Men's Wear and if you plan to do extensive
tailoring for both sexes, you may wish to read both books.

The Men's Wear book includes sections on measurements, pattern adjustments and
fit for men's jackets, vests and pants. Most sections include detailed
information about working with stripes or plaids. There is a long chapter
(>100 pages) describing the steps in making the jacket, darts and pockets,
making a custom collar, making custom sleeves, fitting a muslin sleeve to
guarentee the correct hang, and the lining and lining pockets. The section on
the pants includes several types of pockets, and customizations in the crotch
and fly that are traditional in men's tailored pants.

The Singer book on Tailoring {SRL,T:} has a very good introduction to the
classic method. If you plan to use classic methods, the {CTT:} books provide
many details that the Singer book does not discuss. The {CTT:} books could be
used with {TT&CT:} since they describes some details that are not in {TT&CT:}
and they have a more casual writing style with more illustrations. Both
{CTT:} books are illustrated with simple pencil drawings and a few black and
white photographs. The illustrations in {CTT:} are generally adequate and the
descriptions are usually clear. The {CTT:} books have some very good tips and
illustrations for working with plaids and stripes. Both {CTT:} books are
easier to read than {TT&CT:}, but {TT&CT:} is a more thorough general
reference. Most importantly, the {CTT:} books cover *only* the classic or
custom methods of tailoring.

See also: Tailoring Suits: The Professional Way. Clarence Paulin. {TS:}

See also: The two Power Sewing {SB:} books by Sandra Betzina. Each book has
quite a few articles on topics related to tailoring. The Singer book
_Tailoring_ and the two Betzina books would make a very good reference set for
making tailored suits and jackets. Both books concentrate on sewing women's
clothing.

See also: Many sewing reference books include a section on tailoring.

 

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