05 Re: Radial Arm saw Top
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 4, by multiple authors.
05 Re: Radial Arm saw Top
From: phil@hpcilzb.HP.COM (Phil Ritchey)
Date: 19 Jan 88 00:50:58 GMT
Yes, the newer saws use a particle board base, and this works fine.
The base is made of 3 pieces, one of which is bolted down, the other
two are removable/interchangable. In the center of the large piece
are two bolts, one pulls the center down to the metal frame, the other
pushes up from the metal frame. These are used to remove any slight
warp in the particle board, and should be very easy to do yourself.
All you need is one nut and bolt for the pull down, and a TEE nut
and slotted threaded rod for the push up. Stop at SEARS and look
at how it is done
The next thing you want to do is add a 1/4 inch plywood top to
protect the particle board. You can use contact cement or
small finishing nails to hold it down. When it gets worn,
flip it over or replace it (usually front sheet only).
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER cut into the particle board. That is what
the plywood is for.
I also suggest you buy a new fence or two. The one that comes with
the newer saws is not wide enough, especially if you add a plywood
top. Get one about 2 inches wide, and make sure it is straight.
I have one I only use for crosscuts and 45's, and another older
one I put on for dado's, and other funny angles. I also flip
the fence over when ripping so there are no edges to catch on
the board being cut.
How to keep your saw square?
a) buy a table saw
b) don't ever move your radial saw from the 90 degree position.
It is really hard to keep a radial saw square. That is one of the
major problems with them. Although I happen to like mine.
If your question is how to make the saw square, that I can answer.
Go to the SEARS parts center and buy the manual for your saw.
Simply follow the instructions for adjusting the saw. It is also
very important to follow the instructions for wear compensation
adjustment, since I find this is often the real problem. If sears
no longer carries your manual, post your model # on the net and
some good soul may be willing to xerox his. Various vendors make
saws for SEARS, so not just any manual will do, especially on the old ones.
The magazine WOODSMITH (GREAT MAGAZINE) has had a few neat ideas
on setting up radial saws.
First, they recommend a small removable strip of plywood about 2 or 3 inches
wide, installed where the blade cuts the table in the cross cut position.
This stip is installed off center (i.e. to one side) from the blade.
When the stip gets worn, you can rotate it or flip it to easily get
4X the usage, without having to replace the whole plywood top.
Second, they have a neat trick to check the accuarcy of your adjustment.
Briefly, they put a square against the fence, then slide a block of
wood about 1/3 rd. the blade height forward and backward. The block of wood
has a screw or nail in it to just touch a tooth of the blade. It
should just touch the tooth (same tooth) on the front and the back
of the blade, or you are not square.
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