03 Equipment
Description
This article is from the Canine Activities: Camping with Your Dog, by Jayne Cravens with numerous contributions by others.
03 Equipment
* _Dog identification tags_
The s-hook-style attachments on collars for tags often fail. Use a
small keyring to hold tags instead. There are also collars that
allow tags to be fastened flat against the collar.
In addition, consider having a data chip implanted in your dog;
many veterinarians and animal shelters, even in rural areas, have
scanners that will pick up this chip. The chip provides
identification for the dog, as well as license and vaccination
information. There are different brands of microchips that require
different scanners (readers), so make sure that the shelters in
your area have scanners for the chip you are going to have
implanted. I got both my dogs "microchiped", then moved to a new
city and got a new vet who used a different microchip; she used
her brand of scanner to see if my chip would show up; it did,
although not all of the information was readable. Still, as she
pointed out, a shelter or vet with a scanner would at least know
if the dog was owned by someone, even if the chip information
wasn't readable.
I don't recommend tattoos, as they are often hard (if not
impossible) to find on the dog, and hard to interpret once they
are found.
* _leash_
Be certain before setting out that you have a leash, snap, collar
and buckle in good condition and will not break if the dog
suddenly lunges. Carrying an additional collar and leash is a good
idea in case of loss or breakage. I bring two leashes per dog --
one style is a tough, thick leather leash, used when any other
dogs are around, because it's the only kind strong enough to
retain my dog-aggressive Australian Shepherd in such scenarios;
the other style is the retractable kind, which is an excellent
leash for when there are no other dogs around, and my dogs want to
explore more freely.
* _tether_
Using the leather leash and a specially-designed tether that
fastens around a tree, a picnic table leg, my truck's back tire,
etc., I can create a really long restraint that allows my dogs
total freedom within our campsite. If you have two dogs,tether
them far apart -- just close enough so that they can be
side-by-side only at the end of both restraints -- otherwise, dog
tangles occur.
* _harness (for the seatbelt)_
You may be a wonderful driver, but many people aren't. Plus,
driving on poor and/or curvy roads can send your dog all over the
insides of the car, if not through the windshield. I put my dogs
each in a dog body harness, then run a seatbelt through the
harness. They can sit or laydown, and are quite comfortable, but
can't be thrown around the car. It also keeps them in the back
seat, which is the coolest place in the truck, when I have to run
into a store or something.
If you have a truck with a bed and don't allow your dog in the cab
(which, in my opinion, is ridiculous, but if you insist...),
please purchase a dog carrier and put your dog in it (the carrier
should offer your dog just enough room to stand up and turn around
in, but no more). Dogs die from falling or jumping out of the bed
of a truck, from being thrown against the cab during a sudden
stop; even leashing them to something in the bed of the truck is
no protection, as dogs have also hung themselves while trying to
jump out. A dog carrier is the only humane way to travel with your
dog in the the bed of your truck. Padding the floor, ceiling and
sides offers even better protection.
* _bedding_
When the weather is cold, bedding (a blanket, an air mattress,
etc.) will keep your dog off the cold ground. For my dogs,
bringing their beds along is as much behavioral support as
comfort; they believe that wherever their beds are, that's home. I
put their beds in the back seat for the ride, and they are content
for the whole drive. The first time they slept in a tent, I put
the beds in there, and they relaxed in the "strange" surrounding
quickly.
* _cold protection_
My Australian Shepherd, Wiley, with his long, thick hair, loves
the cold; my Beagle/Basset Hound, Buster, does not. If your dog
has thin or short hair, outfit him or her in a dog sweater (yeah,
I hate 'em too, 'cause they make your dog look like a wuss). If
your dog is shivering, he's either in pain or he's cold or both!
When sleeping in the tent in cold weather, I also throw my coat
completely over Buster, including over his head (since I'm in a
sleeping bag, I don't need it); within just a few minutes, he's
created a body oven, and because the coat is so big, he can stand
up and change positions without losing his cover. Bedding also
keeps your dog off the cold ground (see above). Give your dogs
additional insulation by letting them curl up against you.
One poster to a dog hiking discussion group (see below) noted that
she sprays her dogs' feet and tummies lightly with Pam for short
jaunts through snow; this prevents them from picking up snowballs
in their fur, then licking and pulling snowballs for hours.
If it's below 30 degrees, I think it's too cold for Buster and,
therefore, we sleep in the truck or, if it's really, really too
cold, in a motel.
* _booties_
Depending on the type of terrain and the dog's tendency to tear
footpads, or if there is going to be ice on the ground at the
campsite, consider buying some booties to protect your dog's feet.
Hiking/Backpacking with Canines goes into great detail about what
to look for in booties.
* _food and water _
Clean drinking water is a must for both you and your dog. Although
natural water sources may be plentiful near a campsite, the water
may be contaminated with giardia (a protozoan parasite), or
harmful bacteria or chemicals. In areas where giardia is a problem
you should not allow your dog to drink from streams or lakes (call
the nearest park ranger station to find out the condition of
streams and lakes).
When camping, I carry a 10 gallon plastic container of water. When
desert camping, the 10 gallon container is our only water source,
and it's also an excellent backup should the truck break down far
from a water source. I also carry two one-gallon jugs of water --
one for the dogs, and one for me (I carry one for the dogs because
they like to lick the opening while the water is coming out into
their bowls). The dogs get water at EVERY stop we make (getting
gas, rest area, wherever); riding in the truck seems to really dry
them out.
Don't be fooled by cold weather. Adequate fluid levels are
essential for heat maintenance in both temperature extremes. Drink
plenty of water and encourage your dog to do the same.
* _Dog Food_
I take two-extra days of dog meals, just in case. Whatever you use
for food storage, it should be sturdy and water proof.
* _Towel_
Even if you don't think you are going to be anywhere near water,
bring an extra towel just for the dog(s). You won't regret it.
* _First Aid Kit_
Your dog does not face near the risk of injury or death just
camping with you rather than hiking/backpacking with you... but
the risk is there, none-the-less.
Buy a standard First Aid Kit, then enhance it with extra items
just for the dogs (extra bandages, extra swabs, etc.). Become
familiar with the items in your First Aid Kit and what they are
used for.
If your dog becomes injured, do what you can to make your dog
comfortable and get to a vet FAST. Your goal when giving a dog
First Aid is to stop bleeding, prevent further injury, and to calm
the dog enough so that you can transport the dog to a vet.
Medicating your dog is very difficult -- a dog is not a human; his
or her system will often NOT react the same way to medication as a
human's. Your dog's weight is also a tremendous factor when
considering dosage. I do not suggest you try to medicate a dog
except in the most extreme circumstances.
These are some of the suggestions regarding first aid kits made to
the Dog-Hike list run by Terri Watson (also the author of
Hiking/Backpacking with Canines. Taking all of these items,
however, might not leave no room in your vehicle for your dogs!
How far away from a town with a vet will you be when you camp?
Consider that when trying to judge what of the following you need
to add to your First Aid kit:
Cheryl Kubart, kuba9041@uidaho.edu, a backcountry EMT, suggests
adding these items (to add the doggy stuff, look in your Pet
catalogs or ask your vet):
+ Aleeve- Malox coated aspirn (don't give regular asprin to a
dog, except by doctor's suggestion)
+ VetWrap- sticks to fur better without pulling out hair
+ Kwik Stop or septic powder
+ Small nail scissors
+ Ear and eye oitment- in 1/8 oz tubs (a little Ottomax and
Terramycin)
+ Maybe some skin glue if you feel confident enough to close
SMALL wounds
+ Good tick tweezers and maybe Tick Release
+ Hemostats are great, as are needle nose pliers and lighter
Razorblade to shave hair from an injured area
+ Butterfly bandages- wound closure strips
+ Waterproof surgical tape
+ Sam splints
+ Secta-soothe
+ Mole skin irragation needle (to flush eyes and wounds trauma
dressing and 4 x 4 bandages)
+ Snake bite
(although Cheryl warns, "if your dog gets bit by a ratteler
and you are way out, give him plenty of love and affection
because no one is going to Medflight your dog out of the
wilderness, unless it is a certified SAR dog. Sad but true.
Cheryl suggests staying away from the suturing and/or gluing if
all possible. "Closing a dirty wound is a good way to get
gangrene. The wound will have to be reopened for the vet to clean
it out and you also have 24 hours to stitch. Shave some fur, clean
well, and use butterfly strips."
She adds "one more thing to remember- dogs can indure a lot more
pain then we can - or for that matter than we can watch them go
through."
Other suggestions:
+ Blood stop powder
+ Tube of triple antibiotic (works great for plugging puncture
wound)
+ kotex (to absorb blood and act as a dressing)
+ suture packets (sufficient to do the job, the sutures can be
taken out later at the vet)
+ bandana
Enclose items in a ziplock bag to prevent immersion. Backcountry
EMT courses also teach how to improvise things in the field, such
as duct tape if you have no Vet Wrap.
* _Muzzle_
I carry a strong, cloth muzzle for Wiley, my Australian Shepherd,
the dog-aggressive-dog. It allows him to open his mouth only
enough to drink or have a dog treat. You shouldn't only muzzle
your dog in the presence of other dogs, because it conditions your
dog to begin to worry as soon as you put the muzzle on. Instead,
put the muzzle on whenever you leash your dog; then the muzzle
means he's going for a walk -- always a good thing in a dog's
mind.
* _Large Empty Plastic Soda Bottle_
Yes, you read right -- an empty plastic soda bottle (2 liters).
Take this bottle and hit yourself in the head with it. Didn't
hurt, but made a terrible noise, right? This is my tool to stop
dog fights -- my dog trainer recommends it. Taking plenty of
precautions against dog encounters, I haven't had to use it in
over a year, but, as the owner of a dog-aggressive-dog, I always
have it around. Even if you don't have a dog-aggressive-dog, you
could encounter one.
You can also carry a can of Halt!, a mild pepper-spray, the same
stuff many letter-carriers have on their belts. It can be bought
for under $10 in many cycling stores. Halt! has no lasting effects
and can be washed out of the dog's eyes with water. Halt! has a
range of only 15' or so, and if there's a wind blowing, you or
your dog can get a "back-blast" from it if you're not careful.
* _Other items_
Dog comb and brush, dog toys, dog treats, and extra bags for
doggie-cleanup
* _Vehicle Heating and Cooling Systems_
If you are going to be driving through intense heat or cold, your
dogs will need the protection your vehicle can provide. For my
dogs, heat is the worst of the two extremes (they are both around
more than eight years old, and I always worry about heat
exhaustion or heat stroke) so I make sure my air-conditioner is in
good working order before we take off on our trip.
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