![]() |
![]() |
Articles / TULARC / Aquaria / ReefKeepers / | ![]() |
|
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
||||
|
|
||||
![]() |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
2.8 Trickle Filters |
![]() |
||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
|
|
||
![]() |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
||
![]() |
||
This article is from the ReefKeepers FAQ, by several authors (see the Credits section).
Also known as Wet/Dry Filters. An improvement over UGF and RUGF
filters. Nitrates can be kept low (say, around 5 ppm) with
adequate water changes. It does not seem to be possible to keep
nitrates very low (less than 1 ppm) if a trickle filter is the
sole biological filtration. Those that report less than 1 ppm
normally have adequate live rock, and find that their Nitrates
remain low even (and often get lower) when they remove all the
bio-material from their trickle filters (turning them into plain
sumps, useful for holding carbon and as a water reservoir).
 
Continue to:
animal, fish, aquaria, water, filtration, lights, cost, organisms, catalogs, q&a, books, tables
![]() |
|
|