Description
This article is from the Beginning
Saltwater FAQ, by Thomas Sasala with numerous contributions by
others.
09 Saltwater Maintenance
The cycling process will undoubtedly be the most tense time for you
and your new tank. So below is a guide to the first few days and
months of your tank.
Over the course of the first 4 to 6 weeks your tank will demonstrate
the typical cycling process (which is described in detail the BEGINNER
FAQ). During this critical time, you should carefully watch the
ammonia and nitrites in the tank. If the fish look stressed (darting
around the tank, gasping for air, or not moving at all), a partial
water change might be in order. If the fish look really bad, they may
have to be moved to another tank or storage location until the
toxicity of the tank is reduced. You should always keep salt mix and
dechlorinated water on hand for impromptu water changes.
Along with monitoring ammonia and nitrites, you should keep a careful
eye on the pH (you should always watch the pH, not just during the
cycling process). The pH will tend to fall over time and needs to
raised. The easiest way to raise the pH is through additions of sodium
bicarbonate (i.e., baking soda). Mix a tablespoon or so of baking soda
in a cup of dechlorinated water and slowly add it to the tank. Slowly
means over the course of an hour or two. Baking soda will cause a
short term drop in the pH, but will bring the pH to 8.2 over time.
As time marches on, water will evaporate from the tank and need to be
replenished. The water that evaporates is freshwater and needs to be
replaced with freshwater. You should never use saltwater for makeup
water (unless you want to increase the salinity of the tank).
As the tank matures, algae will start to grow (usually around week 2
or 3). Typically brown algae, otherwise known as diatoms, will be the
first algae that shows up in the tank. Brown algae will usually cover
everything in the tank and need to be cleaned every week or so. With
time green algae should overtake the diatoms and the brown algae will
disappear all together. If it doesn't, there might not be enough light
for the green algae to out-compete the diatoms.
After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major
water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to
you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like
40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon. When changing
the water, the gravel should also be cleaned. There are many
commercially available gravel cleaners on the market.
The chemistry of the change water should be as close to the tank's
water as possible. The pH should be within 0.2 and the temperature
should be within 1-2 degrees. It is better to have the change water
warmer than cooler (imagine the shock of a cold shower and you will
know how your fish will react to cooler change water).
After the first water change you should establish a regular
maintenance schedule. Something like monthly water changes, weekly
algae scrapings, and bi-weekly feedings are normal.
A note on nutrition. Saltwater fish need varied diets. Constantly
feeding your fish flake food may provide it with all the necessary
vitamins and minerals, but this may ultimately cause a nutrition
deficiency of sorts. Alternating between cut up shrimp and clam, flake
food and frozen/live brine shrimp makes a good combination.
Herbivorous fish, like Yellow Tangs, also like romaine lettuce or Nori
(an algae regularly sold at oriental markets) on a regular basis.
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aquaria, fish, acquarium, tank, fishkeeping, saltwater
